La pluie grave d’octobre fouettait la vitre suiffée de notre diligence et l’échine des quatre percherons fumait abondamment. Sur le carreau opposé, la cape du cocher déversait un filet d’eau ininterrompu, que le vent s’amusait à guider en zigzags. La côte était longue, difficile, interminable ; les chevaux peinaient. Quelque hennissement rebelle trahissait le silence ; le silence des sous-bois en automne ; un silence parfait mais pesant.
Si le feuillage multicolore des châtaigniers qui bordaient la route nous paraissaient en cette saison d’une rare beauté, l’endroit était cependant réputé dangereux. Les forets environnantes abritaient quelques bandes de brigands qui s’évertuaient, en un plaisir inouï, à détrousser le premier venu ; celui qui devait emprunter la grande route, l’unique route, la route de Sarlat.
La diligence ramenait chaque semaine quelque fermier, qui ayant vendu ses bêtes au marché du samedi, retournait sur ses terres, deux ou trois bourses de cuir gonflées jusqu’au lacet, pendues à la ceinture ; sous clinquants, sonnants et trébuchants parsemés de rares liards!
L’endroit était si craint, que depuis quelques kilomètres le mutisme régnait à bord de notre voiture, excepté la musique de ces longs soupirs mélancoliques qui accompagnait parfois le hennissement des chevaux. A quelques sourires de circonstance, à de brefs grelottements, à cette atmosphère particulièrement lourde, cette moiteur étouffante qui étreignait les capitons du plafond, nos vareuses, nos âmes, nos esprits et le cuir rouge de nos banquettes, nul écho malsain ne répondit à coup de coutelas de hache ou de gourdin.
Bientôt, le galop des chevaux soulagés se fit plus rapide, la pluie haussa le ton, le vent battit les tempes du cocher, l’échine des percherons redoubla de fumée et la vitre d’en face connut de gigantesques zigzags. La forêt passée et ses brigands absents, la douceur hivernale s’installait dans l’habitacle, froide et humide ; quelque odeur animale nous parfumait les naseaux ; la vie était belle.
Comme toujours en ces moments-là, les langues se délièrent et paraissaient toutes avoir quelque chose à dire en même temps ; sauf une !
Monsieur le Marquis de Sarlat prit la parole. J’écoutais et je rêvais.
Assis face à moi, sur le bord de la voiture côté pluie et tournant le dos au sens de la marche, ce vieux Monsieur aux larges favoris de neige, rondouillard comme tous les notables de toutes les régions, trimbalait sous sa casquette à carreaux et ses larges côtes de velours, quelque chose de « British » ; quelque style d’Outre Manche. Par habitude, il jetait à intervalles réguliers de brefs coups d’œil à sa montre à gousset, dont il ne semblait même pas regarder l’heure.
Ce bon marquis se laissait emporter par de plaisantes anecdotes, au travers desquelles il passait en revue sa bonne vieille ville de Sarlat, qu’il affectionnait de toute évidence plus que tout au monde. La lune se partageait alors en mille morceaux pour se refléter à la belle saison sur les pavés des ruelles étroites, la hauteur et l’esthétique de la charpente des halles, unique ! …les fantômes de ces magnifiques maisons de la Renaissance, sa propre demeure où le lierre avait fini par dompter les grilles en fer forgé et s’attaquait à présent aux pieds des balcons, les vitraux aux plombages en relief et les fleurs à tous les niveaux.
Monsieur le Marquis tuait le temps et tous lui portaient une attention particulière ; sauf une. J’écoutais et je rêvais. Quatre ou cinq quatrains de La Boétie me revenaient en mémoire. Si son « Discours de la servitude volontaire » me procurait quelques minutes d’égarement, un chapelet de nids de poules me ramena brusquement à la réalité en me brinquebalant entre le montant de la portière et « le chasseur » de Montpazier, mon voisin de droite.
Drôle de type ; un solide gaillard qui devait porter à la table quelques dévotions particulières. Il profita de la situation et poursuivit la discussion. Sa passion, nous l’aurions devinée, nous entraînât dans les sous-bois environnants sur les traces de cerfs, de biches, de lièvres et de chevreuils. Moins raffiné dans le verbe que le marquis aux favoris de neige, lui aussi coiffé d’une saison identique, connaissait son sujet sur le bout des doigts et vouait tout autant à son pays un amour sans limite. Ce monde calme et rassurant qui croît sous les châtaigniers n’avait aucun secret pour lui. Les bandits de grands chemins, on pouvait en parler maintenant puisque, par bonheur, nous ne les avions vus et passés « leur côte » de prédilection, lui les avait croisés alors qu’ils rentraient ivres comme des douelles de quatorze. Chacun avait alors passé son chemin, comme si de rien n’était.
Deux énormes oreilles de lièvre dépassaient de la gibecière par le côté, alors que par le haut et reposant sur le portemanteau une longue queue de faisan offrait un peu de couleur vive à la noirceur de notre diligence.
Le chasseur de Montpazier parlait et sentait le sous-bois et tous lui portaient une attention particulière ; sauf une. J’écoutais et je rêvais.
Face au chasseur de Montpazier et assise à côté de Monsieur le Marquis de Sarlat, Madame la Vicomtesse de Nerval. Assez mystérieuse et peu loquace, elle paraissait naviguer entre les eaux troubles d’un autre monde. J’avais bien entendu parler d’elle, mais ne la rencontrais que pour la première fois. Elle fumait. Il paraît que cette Dame passait ses journées à écrire des vers au cœur d’un jardin d’une rare beauté, bordant sa noble demeure, tout en haut du village de Nerval. On dit aussi qu’elle vivait entourée de poules, de pigeons, de canards exotiques que son regretté mari lui ramenait de ses expéditions. Madame la Vicomtesse était veuve depuis peu ; on dit aussi que ce veuvage semblait prémédité… allez savoir !
En tout cas, mille feux illuminaient le soir son grand salon indien, attenant au jardin fleuri et au poulailler exotique ; elle recevait beaucoup et l’on y dansait paraît-il jusqu’à des heures tardives.
Quelques rayons de soleil succédaient à la pluie. Les zigzags, sur la vitre d’en face, avaient disparus. Les chevaux semblaient être revenus à une allure plus raisonnable, mais leur échine fumait toujours autant. D’autres nids de poules jonchaient le chemin, se jouant de notre équilibre, mais nous nous en amusions.
Monsieur le Marquis de Sarlat ronflait de ses sons les plus rauques, le chasseur de Montpazier trafiquait en sa besace, Madame la Vicomtesse de Nerval flottait toujours entre les eaux d’un océan de pacotille et j’admirais de magnifiques pigeonniers qui se dressaient, majestueux, de part et d’autre du chemin.
Loin des habitations, afin de mieux cacher quelques amours clandestines, ces pigeonniers renfermaient de tendres secrets et suspendaient, splendides trophées, les cornes luisantes de quelques générations de maris abusés.
Le père Clusot, abbé à Villefranche-du-Périgord, occupait la place entre Madame la Vicomtesse de Nerval et la vitre de droite, où le soleil qui l’incommodait avait chassé toute trace de zigzag. Il nous avait rejoint à Beynac-et-Cazenac. Dès qu’il avait pris place dans la voiture, bercé par le clapotis des chevaux et la fatigue de la nuit, l’abbé s’était adonné au sommeil des justes. Le pauvre homme arrivait de Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, où il entretenait, dit-on, une maîtresse aux atouts fulgurants. Le bon père faisait le voyage une fois par semaine, mais envisageait, d’après la rumeur, d’installer définitivement sa coquine en ses murs.
Malgré ses pattes de sauterelle et sa peau sur les os, le saint homme dormait toujours et ne semblait ressentir sous sa noire soutane, ni le froid, ni les nids de poules, ni les jurons que lançait maintenant le cocher à ses bêtes. « – Bien le bonjour messieurs dames, bien le bonsoir messieurs dames » et les accents graves de ses longs ronflements, en ces termes se résument à peu près les seuls sons que l’abbé daignât nous porter.
Face à lui, le sixième larron de la voiture était un gros joufflu, barbu, pourvu de moustaches dignes d’un général napoléonien et ne semblant aimer l’eau ni pour la boisson, ni pour la toilette. Cet homme, à l’air du reste très sympathique, portait allègrement un velours luisant de crasse, plissé sous une large ceinture de cuir noirci par quelques années de trop, qui empêchait assurément son ventre de passer par-dessus bord. Il était couvert d’une vareuse de toile, apparemment déchiquetée par deux ou trois chiens méchants et connu des autres sous le nom d’Alfred Sirven. Comme le bon père, lui aussi faisait le voyage régulièrement. Trois bourses gaillardes bosselaient l’intérieur de sa vareuse. Il passait à Sarlat de longues heures à boire et à s’amuser avec les filles de Madame Jeanne. Son couvert était mis à l’auberge, pourrait-on dire.
Il vivait à Montcabrier, où il était l’heureux propriétaire d’une dizaine d’hectares de noyers. Il régentait une femme, six enfants, deux servantes, quatre ouvriers… et ses cinq ou six égéries de l’auberge de Sarlat, qu’il entretenait aisément. Il parlait avec le chasseur de Montpazier qu’il connaissait de longue date, avec lequel il semblait avoir de nombreuses affinités et tentait d’engager de temps à autres la conversation avec Madame la Vicomtesse qui se contentait de lui sourire de ses yeux vitreux. Peut être dansait-elle toujours, entourée de volailles exotiques !
Le marquis de Sarlat déblatérait à nouveau ; je l’écoutais et je rêvais.
Notre diligence s’immobilisa ; nous arrivions à Sauveterre-la-Lémance, mon terminus. Je venais de si loin qu’il fallut un moment pour que mes membres se désengourdissent. Les chevaux buvaient leur eau, le cocher son vin, la Vicomtesse ses rêves et la voiture sa boue. J’adressais donc mes compliments à la Dame, qui me souriait, saluais ces Messieurs et le cocher, puis mon bâton sur le dos je pris enfin le chemin de la Mayne-Longue-Basse. Je savais que Brigitte et Rémi m’attendaient et que l’âtre en mon honneur s’époumonait à attiser ses plus belles flammes. Je savais que les fourneaux rougeoyaient et que les carafes de vin perlaient sur la table. Je savais qu’après l’accolade tout commencerait enfin. Je savais que le soleil couchant plongerait la Mayne-Longue-Basse dans une demi-teinte, que seuls un Monnet ou un Poussin serait en mesure d’en retraduire les bontés. Je savais que les biches viendraient au petit matin boire la lumière dans le fond du pré.
Je savais tout cela et bien des choses encore, mais je ne pensais plus à rien ; le canard qui se prélassait dans le fond d’une cocotte sur un lit de cèpes m’ôtait toute subtilité. La matière prenait le pas sur la conscience ; j’étais à la Mayne-Longue-Basse et rien d’autre n’existait !
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